Boston Entrepreneur Grows Custom Clothing Business by Double Digits

Sales have never been better for Alan P. Rouleau who combines old world service with a contemporary philosophy.

One block from the Ritz-Carlton in the heart of downtown Boston, you'll find the establishment of Alan Rouleau Couturier. The custom tailoring and design firm operates a showroom at this prestigious 91 Newbury Street location. A second site which houses the retail store and mini-showroom may be found at 500 Boylston Street. And this savvy custom clothier is currently scouting a third location in the financial district of historic Boston.

Alan P. Rouleau, owner of the firm that bears his name first indulged his entrepreneurial flair during his college days in the late 1970s. Purchasing a small pub, he later went on to build a 250-seat restaurant three blocks away in 1981. He then took over management of an existing restaurant in a tennis and racquetball club and subsequently bought the club in 1983.

After selling the businesses in 1985, he relocated to Boston where he became vice president of a local real estate company. Rouleau also served as a consultant for small business owners and by chance landed a client who needed assistance in putting together a business plan for a men's haberdashery. Upon completion of the project, the client opted out of the project, so Rouleau decided to open the store himself. Together with a partner, Alan Lawrence Clothiers made its debut in the Faneuil Hall Marketplace in 1987. As the retail business grew, Rouleau pursued custom tailoring during the evenings by working for a tailor. He credits this experience, his wholesale tailoring sources and his membership in the CTDA with enabling him to achieve the success he currently enjoys.

By 1993 the partners went their separate ways and Rouleau opened a haberdashery devoted exclusively to custom tailored clothing. In 1995, Rouleau took 600 square feet of space in one of Boston's most desirable office buildings. While the store has no street exposure, it is situated in a walkway between two office buildings and is flanked by two large display windows 6 feet by 12 feet respectively.

His larger, 1500 square foot rectangular showroom is located on the penthouse floor of a turn-of-the-century manor house on the second block of Newbury Street. The elevator delivers the patron directly to the front of the showroom where there is a handsome, eight-foot, art Deco pool table (designed by Rouleau). The game table doubles as a display/work surface when the matching wood top is added.

It is here that the cloth samples are displayed, amid antique chairs and sofas which decorate the showroom and offer both comfort and reading areas. A well stocked wine bar is provided for the client and cognac as well as scotch is served in cut crystal glassware.

Rouleau has selected early art Deco colors of rich creams and browns with chrome accents for the showroon's soothing color palette. The shelving is also chrome and glass. The hand-painted, diamond patterned floor makes the physical plant appear much larger as it reflects into 336 square feet of custom mirrors which line the hallway between the front and rear of the showroom. Jazz and classical music emanate softly from an in-house Bose sound system. The entire area is washed in natural light due to the restoration of two 8 feet by 8 feet skylights--one above the fitting area and the other over the tailor shop. There are also large windows at either end of the showroom which further illuminate the space.

Ties are draped on chrome racks, waterfall style to reflect off of the mirrors and to add color and depth to the showroom. Antique and contemporary cuff links are featured in a jewelry case together with custom belts and buckle samples which are housed in a stand-up glass display.

The rear of the showroom houses the office and tailor shop where customers may view the skilled craftsmen at work. Alan Rouleau currently employs four full-time and three part-time tailors.

The Boylston Street location is designed more for retail and walk-through traffic, servicing the building (with over 4,000 employees) as well as the adjoining office complex. It also has an open tailor shop, two display cases, two dressing rooms and two large windows facing the walkway. One of the window displays is only 18 inches wide. The background is of actual bolts of fabric with a changing foreground of fabric samples, shirts, collar and cuff displays, etc. The other window was custom built with receding brackets that can be changed. It has a cherry hardwood floor that was raised to bottom window level so the customer is eye level with the product. The background is in neutral off-white to maximize the impact of color and clarity. Rouleau mentions, "Displaying our awards in the window along with our clothing generates a lot of interest." Both sites are set up for outside alterations, as well as gifts and accessories to complement the custom business.

Rouleau carries little in the way of piece goods, preferring to sell almost everything exclusively from samples. He finds it to be more cost efficient and frees up funds to develop business. Suit prices are "midrange and up," beginning at $795, with the highest priced suit to date running $3,900. Bench made suits begin at $3000.

All of Rouleau's suits are edge stitched on the lapels and pockets, have hand-felled waistbands and real sleeve holes are cut by hand. He doesn't own a button hole machine. Chest pieces are all of soft construction.

Custom shirts comprise another significant portion of Rouleau's business. He has designed four leather bound books trimmed with gold leaf to display shirting fabrics. Heavy duty photo pages demonstrate the finished products. Aside from their line of fine custom shirts which retail from $75 and up, bench made shirts begin at $350.

Neckwear, cummerbund sets, bow ties, pocket squares and scarves can all be made in-house. Belts in calfskin, lizard, crocodile and alligator are available and custom made sterling silver and gold buckles range in price from $160 to $1600.

Rouleau's client base is principally from the northeast, although one of his major clients lives in Florida most of the year. Rouleau relates, "On occasion, we will have a walk-in client from another part of the country. As a rule, I prefer to turn the lead over to another reputable CTDA member, unless the customer insists."

Their new business is derived primarily from their existing customer base. "If you have a satisfied customer and he brings you one new customer a year, you have doubled your business. That has always been our philosophy," Rouleau emphasizes.

"We do not do any advertising, strictly speaking, aside from two sales promotions a year for which we do a direct mailing. We have been named •Best of Boston' for the past two years and our operation was featured in Town & Country in 1991.

"Our sales approach is basically a non-sales approach. After 10 years, you develop an instinct for the customer. Reputation, a great product and service sell. We have not made a single cold call since opening our doors. Instead, we spend all of our time ensuring that our customer enjoys the best service possible.

"We are not interested in doing just one suit. We endeavor to do all of their wardrobe that can possibly be custom made. Then after we make their clothes, we help them take care of them."

The alteration side of the business has brought in one to three custom customers per month, leaving little down time for his tailors and smoothing out Rouleau's cash flow.

"We do a lot of charity work. Targeting black tie events is a good means of exposure for us. Generally the ticket prices are between $100-$150, so you know that if they attend, they should be your customer. We donate $1000 custom wardrobe certificates for men and/or women which normally gets us into the live auction. The notion of a custom wardrobe is very appealing to many of the participants. After a while, your name begins to be noticed and it is a winning proposition for all concerned. The charities benefit and the returns generally add up. Last year we gave $15,000 to charity black tie affairs and the return sales were $33,000 and 17 new customers."

Same day service, pickup and delivery, appointments at his showroom, the patron's home or office, tie cleaning and renovation, free parking at the Boylston location and valet parking at the Newbury Street address are just a few of the amenities offered by Alan Rouleau Couturier.

In 1987, Rouleau's original business plan was based upon the fact that the more high-tech society became, the more people would look for a high-touch business with which to connect. Computers make it increasingly easy for people not to physically interact with others. Rouleau reflects, "Our business is just the opposite. Anyone can sell clothes. But we can create wardrobes for an individual, assist them in taking care of their investment and make them look and feel good about themselves.

"Our concept to be a little less accessible and more private is starting to pay off. We averaged a 28 percent increase in 1995 over 1994 and with our new location, about 36 percent increase over 1995 at this same time. Find your niche and fill that niche to the best of your ability. Fine tune your operation and make the niche deeper so your competition cannot overtake you."

Alan Rouleau Couturier received several commendations, including Boston Magazine '95 Best of Boston Tailor and '94 Best of Boston Alterations--also Custom Tailors & Designers Association Fashion Merit Awards and Town and Country Magazine's •one of the top tailors in the U.S.'

Reprinted with permission of Halper Publishing Company

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